Stitching? – Should You Remove The Thread From Your Suit

bespoke suit with stitching and tacking

Apologies Gentleman for not updating my blog recently. I’ve been working on the back-end of things and have not forgotten about all you stylish men. I’ve recently joined The Student Room and I’m really enjoying speaking to all these young students who have a million questions. I found one that really shocked me, it was from a young man who wanted to know if he should remove the stitching left by the manufacturing company in his clothing.

bespoke suit with stitching and tacking

If you don’t know why this is done, it’s basically to prevent bits of the clothing from getting caught in any of the machinery or getting folded over and being creased in an awkward way for 6 months while in storage – thus potentially ruining the clothing.

Removing The Stitching

To answer the question; should you remove the tacking from your clothing? Yes.

The most common tacking done to suits would be on the lapel and on the vents. Sometimes you will find that the manufacturer has stitched down the lapel through the lapel pin hole on the left breast. The vents on the back, whether it be single or double vented, would also be stitched together in an “X” shape. It is absolutely essential that you remove both of these, no ifs no buts. Unlike most fashion rules, this one is agreed by everyone that it can not be broken. The moment you get that suit home, remove it.

Removing The Stitching – Optional

There are some common spots on your suit that are most likely to be stitched together as well. The back pocket of your suit trousers, the breast pocket of the blazer and the receipt pockets on the front of your blazer. These are optional and should only be removed if you intend on using those pockets.

I use my trouser and breast pockets every day so this is a must for me. The problem is if you open up the front receipt pockets of your blazer then you may be tempted to fill them. If you cram a coke can in them one night, you could potentially ruin the shape of your blazer permanently so be aware.

bespoke suit with stitching and tacking

bespoke suit with stitching and tacking

alpha m hugging a guy in sunglasses

The Two Step Rule To Sunglasses

The Two Step Rule To Sunglasses cover

With summer well on the way the Ray-Bans are fully out in waves to protect our lovely eyes from the dangerous Sun. Even though realistically none of us really wear sunglasses to protect our eyes, sunglasses still have a great use and I hate going out for the day in summer without my Ray-Bans. Do I recommend you to buy sunglasses? Absolutely! They are a great fashion statement and take good care of our eyes.

So what’s the two step rule then?

Sunglasses – The Two Step Rule

It’s simple; when you walk into any building anywhere, you take two steps into the building and take off your shades. Why? Well before I answer; let me ask you, Why would you wear sunglasses inside if the Sun is outside? Unless you are a vampire, it looks weird. Always take them off and hang them off your neckline on your shirt, hold them in your hand or put them in their case.

Maybe you are wondering why two steps into the building then taking them off, it’s quite simple really. I like my Ray-Bans, I look pretty damn good in them and I still want people to see me wearing them. Two steps is enough for people to see my shades on my face but not enough time that they’ll start seeing me as some wanna-be celebrity avoiding paparazzi.

If you are wondering what sunglasses are best, well I’ll discuss that at a later date but I would definitely always recommend Ray-Bans. Known as the biggest and most popular brand out there, originally designed for the military and now worn by politicians, movie stars, sports people and even casual folk like you and me.

Ray-Ban Folding Wayfarer Sunglasses - Matte Blue - 50mm
Ray-Ban Folding Wayfarer Sunglasses – Matte Blue – 50mm
Ray-Ban Original Wayfarer Sunglasses - Tortoise - 50mm
Ray-Ban Original Wayfarer Sunglasses – Tortoise – 50mm

The Two Step Rule To Sunglasses cover 2

The Two Step Rule To Sunglasses cover 3

Remove The Label

I can’t believe I’m actually writing about this one but it’s something I’ve seen a few times in my short life and I must say, it is annoying! Those temporary brand labels left on the sleeves of suits as if they are supposed to be permanently part of the suit. I’m going to guess most people do it out of ignorance.

I do however get how they make the mistake; they go to the store, grab themselves a bargain on a quality suit from a big brand and they want to show it off. Well there’s many ways to do that, they could take a picture of the inside label of the jacket so everyone knows they have an DKNY suit. Another option would be to tell everyone they come in contact with. Whatever way they choose I don’t mind but one way no-one should ever do, under any circumstance is leave that label on the jacket sleeve on.

The moment you get home with your new suit, remove all labels! Don’t think about it just do it. It’s cringy and really weird to leave it on. Unless of course you are planning on returning the suit and getting a full refund. Which is a bit weird, why buy the suit in the first place?

Next time you see someone with a label on their sleeve, let them know that it’s tacky, please.

Shake my head.

label-on-suit-sleeve

For more style tips click; here.

T-Shirt Under Your Shirt

v neck & suit

There are a million style tips you can start applying in order to make yourself look better. In my old job, we used to always say that if you could improve 50 things by 1% you are now 50% better off – true stuff! So who wears a t-shirt under their shirt? I definitely do. Living in the UK, its cold 300 days a year and the need to put on another layer is real.

The problem with wearing a t-shirt under your shirt is that if you don’t wear a tie, it can end up poking out of your shirt. I wear t-shirts outside which is fine if your casual but the moment you wear it under your dress shirt, your t-shirt automatically becomes underwear. Sounds weird but it’s true, whether man or woman, your underwear is to be as hidden as possible and if you want to be a man of class then this is completely necessary.

Having your t-shirt poking out under your dress shirt looks sloppy and is similar to a woman who bends over and shows off all her backside & her thong – not a good look! If you want to be known as a well dressed individual then hiding your undergarments is essential.

The easiest way to hide your t-shirt is to not wear one, but living in the UK between october and june would mean you would be pretty cold. The best option is to do what I do, wear a v-neck t-shirt. They aren’t expensive and it really depends how many times you go out in a shirt without a tie. I only leave the house without a tie twice a week so I only own about three or four v-neck t-shirts. I save all my crewneck t-shirts for the days I wear ties and you should do the same.

I’ve added two items to my shop in order to give you guys the perfect v-neck’s to be worn with your outfits to ensure you won’t end up looking sloppy.

[products ids=”2063,2053″]

See the difference a v-neck makes for yourself;

How Often Should You Get A Haircut?

The answer that isn’t really an answer is; it depends on how long your hair is. To keep it simple follow this rule.

If your hair is short, you need a haircut once a month. If it’s medium length where you can actually gel your hair, then once every three months. Any long hair also needs to be cut every six months to a year.

If you follow this rule you will be alright. Now I got a question for you, are you ok with just being alright? I don’t want to be known as the guy who dresses alright. So what else do you need to do?

Between haircuts things will start to grow in different places depending on how hairy you are. For me, I have an M shape hairline and the back of my neck also gets really hairy. So every three to five days I pick up my cut throat blade (I recommend you get one) and I shave off the hair myself. Just because you got a haircut four days ago doesn’t mean you still look nice and neat now.

If you aren’t sure if you need to touch places up with a razor just ask a friend if your beard or your hairline looks messy. Staying on top of this five minute job will make people look at you like someone who just always looks great.

Shaving – The Old School Way

shaving the old school way cover photo large

Ever heard of Sweeney Todd? If you have then you know what this post is all about. If you haven’t then not to worry, it doesn’t really matter. So let’s get to it.

shaving the old school way cover photo

Last night I was getting ready for today and figured I’d shave, which by shave I mean shave my moustache and shape up my hair line to get rid of the weird bit of hair that grows on my forehead (I know right eww.) So I normally do all of this with my normal disposable razor but recently I’ve been reading up on how amazing these cut throat razor are and everyone says it’s what a true gentleman would use. So being the aspiring gentleman that I am I felt like I had to actually go and grab myself one and actually see what all the hype is really about.

Usually when it comes to old fashioned things, I just naturally hate all things old. Why? I don’t know really, I love technology and new things, to prove my love for technology I actually even own a smartwatch which I pretty much wear and use everyday. I was a little reluctant to use the blade and not to mention a little scared of slicing up my face. I bought one online for peanuts and decided to give it a try.

It came in the post a few days ago and I figured I’d attempt to shape up my hair line and trim my moustache. So as per usual, I washed my face and then I added all the shaving foam and prepared myself for the worst. Needless to say five minutes later, I had a beautifully shaped up hairline, and a perfectly thin moustache. Then a minute later I was pretty much covered in blood, my skin had like seven different cuts so I ended the night covered in vaseline over every cut. Yes it hurt like hell!

Do I regret doing it? No way, the shave is amazing, it actually removes all the hair and I have so much more control over the blade. It may have hurt last night but now I can’t feel a thing, none of the cuts are visible so it’s definitely a winning situation.

I absolutely advise grabbing yourself one, hopefully you won’t cut yourself as much as I did.

Your Tie Clip Should Never Be Wider Than Your Tie

tie clips and suits 3

I’ve been really busy recently and haven’t managed to post much but I went for a walk today with the Mrs and noticed some cheerful chap in a suit, he looked pretty decent except he had a wide tie clip on a skinny tie. I had a dying urge to go up to him and correct the issue by stealing his clip. However I’m now hoping he reads this.

Tie bars are a great accessory and can really make us men look smart and dapper. They create a feeling of taking extra care on our appearance, even though they only take 3 seconds to apply in the morning.

tie clips and suits 4

If you are like me and like to switch between skinny ties and wide ties depending on the suit you are wearing then you really should own a tie clip for your skinny ties and a tie clip for your wide ties. Tie clips aren’t expensive so don’t be stingy on this one, its important. Some people say the tie clip should be the same length as your tie, others claim it should be almost the same length. Which ever opinion you follow is up to you, however it is absolutely essential that the tie clip isn’t longer than tie itself. This looks crap, cheap and weird.

The only other problem some people have is where to position them, that’s pretty simple, just have a look at the below image.

the perfect way to wear a tie bar

Get Yours Here..

Moss London Gunmetal Skinny Tie Bar
Moss London Gunmetal Skinny Tie Bar – £15.00
Moss 1851 Silver Brushed Tie Bar
Moss 1851 Silver Brushed Tie Bar – £15.00

Tie Width Matching Lapels

tie matching lapel

The width of your tie needs to match the width of your lapels.

It’s pretty basic but so many people go wrong either because a) they don’t know this or b) they just don’t have another tie to wear with the suit.

tie matching lapel

If you are among the “a” people then now you know, no excuses! If you are the “b” people then either go buy some more wide/skinny ties or don’t wear a tie with your suit. As tempting as it may be, a skinny tie looks awful on a wide lapeled suit and vice versa.

For those of you reading this confused.. I’ll go into a bit more detail. The lapels are the part on each side of a coat or jacket immediately below the collar that is folded back on either side of the front opening. Some jackets have really wide lapels, others really thin. Usually a skinny fit suit will have really thin lapels which is why they look great with skinny fit ties obviously.

If you have a ridiculously wide lapeled suit like the one shown below, then obviously don’t try to find a tie with the same width.

tie matching lapel

Don’t Match Pocket Square & Tie

Don't Match Pocket Square & Tie

Sounds weird right? Why wouldn’t you match your pocket square with your tie. Some say that’s the whole point of wearing them. Well I disagree – kind of. Let me explain..

If you buy a tie and it comes with a pocket square, don’t wear them together. Instead mix and match your pocket squares and ties. A black and white polka dot tie might look great but when paired with a black and white polka dot pocket square, its a bit too much.

I obviously understand that if you only have a few pocket squares and ties then you can get away with it. But eventually you want to build up a big enough collection that you can constantly keep mixing things up and keeping your outfits forever changing.

I wouldn’t advise going out and buying 10 pocket squares, however it wouldn’t hurt to spend £8 once every payday and grab yourself a good quality pocket square.

Remember you want to coordinate in your colors and fabrics but not be too robotic and matchy.

Don't Match Pocket Square & Tie

How To Buy An Expensive Suit For Cheap

how to buy a cheap suit

Today I wanted to share a personal trick of mine that not many people know about it and I really think this will be extremely helpful to all of you. The other day I bought a £130 suit for £42. Obviously £130 isn’t an expensive suit but I’m just going to run you through my trick by using this suit as an example for you guys to understand.

Sales and clearance items are great because the suits go from £250 down to £85, however they are usually really annoying to go shop through. Even if you manage to find a blazer your size, it’s impossible to find trousers that fit.

The trick is to find a trousers that are too long for you and get them cut to fit you. I managed to find a slim fit blazer 38S, which is my exact size, then for the trousers I had to buy a 34L which is about 4 inches too long for me. So very simply, I took the trousers to the tailors and got the 4 inches cut off for me. It cost me £10 to get them cut which meant in total the suit cost me £52. Not bad eyy?

One final tip, when you go to the tailor, if you have other things needed, like dry cleaning or another alterations, always try and pitch them for a discount.

Remember buying something for cheap isn’t always a bad thing.