Size Down

size down sizing guide above the ankles 2

When buying a suit, there are so many things that could go well and also just as many things that could go wrong. If you ask any woman what is her favourite thing about a guy in a suit, 90% of them will say that it is the fit. A cheap well fitted suit is always going to look better than an expensive baggy suit.

Now the tip when buying a suit is to always try on the size below whatever you normally wear or whatever the store assistant says. Just because they work in TM Lewin or in Marks & Spencer, doesn’t mean they know what they are talking about.

By sizing down, you are going to find the jacket a bit tighter, you will fill a lot more restricted. So where does it get too much? If you can raise your hands high above your head then it is a perfect fit. If however, when you raise your hands above your head and your suit feels like it’s about to rip or you can’t close your blazer buttons, take the jacket off before you have to pay for it because you ripped it.

If you are a size 40, try on a 38, no harm in trying so. I have been doing this for years and it always work.

Leave a comment below and let me know if this has helped you.

size down sizing guide above the ankles 2

Diversity In Suits

mens wardrobe suits

If you want to look dapper and be known as the guy who dresses really well then; open your wardrobe and have a look at your suits. Have a nice good look at each suit. You should see a great range of colours, designs and fits. If all your suits are summer colours, skinny fit, single breasted, single vented and one buttoned, then you have done something wrong. Similarly if you have all tailored fit suits, all black, grey and navy, then yes you have also made a mistake.

Looking good is all about being different, never wearing an outfit that was similar to yesterdays outfit. Your wardrobe should consist of, tweed suits, wool suits, polyester blends and cotton. You should also have different fits and colours.

When you switch between fits (tailored, slim & skinny) or between material (wool, cotton, polyester), what you will find is that people will tell you that they love your new suit, then a week later ask you regarding the same suit, if you just bought a new suit and swear they have never seen it before.

There is no “best” material, fit or colour. All are great and as long as you switch it all up you can make 5 suits look like 20.

mens wardrobe suits

What Are Shirts Designed To Be?

shirts are designed to abovetheankles cover

Can you guess what shirts are designed to be?

This might seem ridiculously obvious but unfortunately I see it everyday at work for some strange reason. By shirts I mean dress (formal) shirts. So what were dress shirts designed to do?

Dress shirts are designed to be tucked in, they are made long with extra material so that when they are tucked into the trousers, they stay there. Whether you plan on wearing a full suit or some casual jeans without a tie, your shirt should be tucked in – it just looks better.

Have a look for yourself;

tucked in or not 3
tucked in or not 3
tucked in or not 3

Regardless of whether you want to look casual or just feel relaxed, if you are going to be wearing a suit, your shirt absolutely has to be tucked in. If you are going for a more casual jeans or chinos look then understand that you can’t wear an ordinary dress shirt untucked. If you want to go and get it tailored for like £5 and the shirt will get shortened and look better. Alternatively, of course you could just buy a formal shirt that isn’t long and keep that untucked if you wish.

shirts are designed to abovetheankles

Keep Clean

above the ankles keep clean

If there’s something women love more than a man in a suit, then it is a clean and well groomed man in a suit. As men we tend to be a little lazy and we often can’t be bothered to do some of the absolute basic things. Breaking that tendency is the hard part but once you do you will find your sex appeal will shoot through the roof.

Being clean and well groomed actually means different things to different men so I won’t dive too deep into the details of what you should and shouldn’t do, what ever suits you go with it. It is however important that you are constantly thinking bot just about your outfit but your hygiene. Are you wearing deodorant? Have you cut your nails recently? Whens the last time you had a haircut?

Those are the basics I’m sure you all know and hopefully if you are reading this you already have these things in the bag. How about do you wash your mouth out after eating or do you check your teeth for food in the mirror when you go in the toilet/bathroom at work or in a restaurant. Do you clean your shoes only at home or do you ever notice dirt on your shoe and get it off.

It may sound like a lot of work but eventually being hygienically clean and groomed will become second nature. In your careers and jobs people will trust you more. Their faith in you will increase because they see a guy who looks after the finer details and goes the extra mile.

If you have any other not-so obvious tips then please feel free to comment below.

Keep A Suit Hidden

keep one suit hidden special occassions

If you don’t already do this you need to start ASAP. Keeping one of your suits out of public eye is important, especially for those of us that don’t own a tuxedo. We need to have that special suit that no one has really seen or the last time they’ve seen it was so long ago they think it’s a brand new suit.

As people we love change, we love things that a different or new. I don’t know the phycology behind it but try it out, it’s so true. I have my blue pin stripe suit that I wear 3-5 times a year. It’s my favorite suit and for that reason I rarely wear it.

Collar Stays/Bones

tm lewin collar bones abovetheankles

Maintaining the appearance of your clothes should be a top priority for all of us. Looking after our clothes is often so simple to do yet so many of us slack in it. Little things like brushing our clothes, using a lint roller or shoe trees can really make all the difference. One thing that many people miss out on is collar bones. Collar bones are the hard things in your shirt collar that stop your collar from loosing it’s shape. Many of you won’t actually need these because your shirts won’t actually have the space in your shirt collar for it. If you have a quality shirt from TM Lewin, M&S or Hawes & Curtis then you will definitely know about collar bones.

The important thing to know is; always take out your collar bones before putting your shirt in the wash. Collar bones come in either metal or plastic, I prefer the plastic ones but both are equally as good really.

Ensure your shirt collar stays flat and crisp with this set of collar stays. Designed to slot into the specially-made pockets on the underside of the shirt’s collar. Not every shirt is fitted with these pockets, so best check your shirt beforehand.

collar bones abovetheankles shirt and tie 2
collar bones abovetheankles shirt and tie 3
collar bones abovetheankles shirt and tie
collar bones abovetheankles
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tm lewin collar bones abovetheankles

Where To Buy Them?

I personally would recommend eBay, you can get them for like £2-5 but I know some of you aren’t really big fans of eBay so if that’s the case then here’s some other links.

Moss Silver Metal Collar Stiffener – £15

John Lewis Rhodium Collar Stay – £18

M&S Collar Brass Stiffeners – £9.50

Classic Collar Bone Gift Set – £25

Look Good Feel Good

look good feel good above the ankles

I have had a lot of people ask me about why I dress the way I dress and I’ve answered this before but I figured this time I’d explain something I usually leave out. I think we all dress good and look good so that we feel good. Or is it just me? I mean ultimately we spend time and money picking the right items of clothing and building the outfits we love so that other people see us looking good. Which sounds a bit self centered but none of us get dressed at home in our best clothes and then just sit around, take no pictures and then get changed again into our shorts.

Feeling good comes in many different formats when it comes to clothing. The main two are; are you comfortable in what you’re wearing & do you think you look good. Once we answer yes to both of those then we have the perfect outfit.

This all sprung to my mind today while I was wearing my Next wool suit. No word of a lie wool suits are extremely comfortable and soft. They are so much nicer to move around in compared to the normal polyblend suits I normally wear.

More important than how comfortable my suit is or how nice it is to walk in brogues, ultimately I care about one thing – what do others think of it? Now I don’t mean, I’m going to cry if I get no compliments, but in fact I mean, do I blend in or do I stand out? Do I get a second look or do people see through me? The compliments are just an added bonus.

Whether you prefer comfort over looks in your outfit, ultimately if you could get both, wouldn’t you want it? Get to know what suits, shirts and shoes are comfortable and look great. The feeling when you got two in one – perfect!

Looking After Your Shirts

shirts on a hanger

When it comes to washing your shirts there are multiple ways to do it, whether its dry cleaning, washing machine or hand washing. Which ever way you choose to wash your clothes is up to you. What I want to talk to about in this post is how to maintain your shirt which ever way you wash it.

Separation

Split your shirts away from all your other dirty washing. Stuffing your shirts in a washing basket with your socks, boxers and jeans is a bad idea. Firstly think about the smell? Urgh. Secondly the stains can spread between your clothes. The yellow sweat stains can become permanent if you leave the shirts in the basket for too long.

Hang Them

Once you take your shirt off, don’t throw it on your bed or on the floor. Take it off properly and hang it up. Keep it separate from your clean shirts so you don’t wear the same shirts or stink out your clean shirts.

Don’t Let Them Crease

Once you have washed your shirts, they need to be taken straight out the washing machine and let them air dry. Putting them on a heater or in the tumble dryer is a bad idea. It can seriously mess up the shape off the collars and ruin the material of the shirt. Best thing to do is place it on a hanger and let it air dry.

If you found this helpful, let me know. If you have any questions or want me to go into more detail, comment below or message me on Instagram.

Do You Know Your Shirt Collar Styles?

different types of shirts

When it comes to buying a shirt, it’s not just about picking up the first white shirt you see or looking for the cheapest packet of three shirts. Now I’m not saying you should spend tons of money on a shirt but you just can’t buy shirts for less than £20. Some places like Marks & Spencer sell shirts for £35 to £45, which is normal for most people but I’d never pay that much. You can get great shirts for £20 from TM Lewin, Moss Bro’s & Next.

It’s not just price you need to look at when shopping around for a shirt, you need a whole bunch of things. You need to consider; the fit of the shirt, how the shirt cuffs are going to be, the colour of the shirt, the patterns on the shirt and what type of collar.

The Different Types Of Collars

different types of shirts

The Cutaway collar

This is a classic style perfect for business, whether you’ve got a day catching up in the office, or an important presentation to deliver. The cut away collar leaves a large space for a tie to be knotted into, mirroring the line of your shoulders. This is perfect for traditional ties to be worn in a Windsor Knot, giving ample room for that perfect triangular fold and wrap.

The Button Down Collar

The button down collar has evolved over time, with its heritage being in workwear as a practical solution to preventing the dreaded curled up collar. You now find button down collars more commonly in social environments. They’re perfect to wear teamed with a v-neck sweater or cardigan since the buttons help to control the collar, drawing the lines of the outer garment and shirt together. T.M. Lewin have recently started to bring the button down collar back into a more formal environment, applying the detail to shirts with a classic semi-cut away collar. This works well when coupled with a slim tie, tie clip and pocket square – adding great features to your look.

The Contrast Collar

Up until a few years ago, when you saw a contrast collar on a shirt (usually a white collar with a plain blue or pink shirt body), you’d think; 1980’s yuppies like in the picture above. This style has turned full circle since then and is now a prominent feature in many modern day shirtmakers collections. We’d always suggest wearing a tie with this type of collar, helping to draw the contrasting colours together, using the collar as the focal point.

The Round Collar

The round collar has been making a return to both work and social environments in a big way for the past couple of years. The collar itself will be rounded at the tips creating a less formal image, perfect for work Christmas parties and corporate entertainment. Round collars look great when they carry contrast to the shirt body, helping to accentuate the features of the collar. You can combine this style with a slim knitted tie and a plain silver tie clip to complete the look.

The Collar Pin

The pin is another way to add detail to your image. Shirts with collar pins will have a fairly tight area in which to slot a tie, so make sure you pick out a slim or skinny tie. Collar pin shirts don’t always have to be formal, however. A slim fit shirt buttoned up to the top and finished with a pin can look great with a pair of dark slim fit jeans and a well-tailored jacket for the party season.

The Wingtip

Form is temporary, class is permanent, and that can certainly be said of the wingtip. The collar is tunic in style with triangular tips placed at the fastening ends. This style of shirt has stood the test of time – team it with a sharp dinner suit and black bow tie for that James Bond appearance. If you want to look even cooler, untie your tie, let it drape around your neck, and unbutton your top button. How did you want that Martini again sir?

If you are looking to get a shirt then I will always recommend TM Lewin, they look expensive, some things are expensive in there but ultimately they are a cheap store with top quality stuff. My absolute favourite for shirts of different styles.

different types of shirts

How’s The Fit? A Simple Guide To Suit Sizes

how a suit fits above the ankles

We all want to look good, we always hear people say; “It’s all about the fit” but what does that actually mean. The only time you really have an excuse for not wearing a nicely fitted suit is in school. Once you leave education you should really know how to buy clothes that are fitted well and look great. Your suits are the most important part of your wardrobe, people can tell a lot about you based on how the quality of your suit and how well it fits.

Size

When it comes to buying a suit online or in store, you need to buy your size. Don’t be tempted to buy a suit that’s on sale for a great price but its a 38L and your only 5″10. If you’re short make sure you buy short sizes, if you’re tall then buy the tall/long sizes. I know it can be hard to say no sometimes but if they don’t have your size, walk away or close that tab.

Sleeve Length

how a suit fits above the ankles

This is one that people over look too often, if you’re shopping in store then put the suit on and check the sleeve length, if you’re online then check the sizing guides to see how many inches the arms are. There are some basic rules:

1. The end of the sleeve should rest in the area where the bottom of your thumb meets your wrist.

2. When your arms are by your side your knuckles should be in line with the bottom of your suit jacket.

Shoulders

Wide shoulders are just terrible, everyone hates a suit that’s just too wide for the person wearing it. I advise everyone to get measured by a tailor and know the width of your shoulders. The shoulders of your blazer need to end at your shoulders.

How Tight

To know if your suit jacket is too tight, slide your hand into your suit under your lapels, check how it feels. If you can slide your hand in and out with ease then you know it fits well. Do your buttons up, if you can’t breathe freely then the jacket doesn’t fit you. If your suit is too tight then you will feel uncomfortable and you won’t get the results you want.

Two Or Three Buttons

Whether you want to wear a two or three buttoned suit it’s completely irrelevant. There are obviously some rules when it comes to buttons. If you’re wearing a three buttoned blazer then make sure the middle button is just above your belly button. However, if its the general two buttoned suit then the top button should be just above it.

Trousers

how a suit fits above the ankles

The way trousers fits are just entirely up to you, it depends on your style. For me, a good fitting trouser shouldn’t be too loose that someone could put their arm up your trousers and go all the way up to your bits. It also shouldn’t be too tight that you keep ripping your trousers every time you bend down. They should also be cut above your ankles to show off your socks or your ankles.

Summary

The most important thing without a doubt when it comes to wearing a suit is the way it fits. Obviously when you’re just an average joe with some loose change like me then you can’t really go to the tailor and get a bespoke suit. So what do you do? You try your absolute best to meet as many of these requirements as possible!

Sounds like a lot of work? When people can’t stop complimenting you, it will all be worth it.

how a suit fits above the ankles